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Although I helped create Rancho Encantado and have watched it evolve over more than fifteen years to what it is now, I have not really had the perspective of being a guest there. My eyes were always wandering over the gardens, the furnishings and all the details, which are part of maintaining the ambience the Rancho provides.
As the years have gone by, I’ve been more and more of a guest, but on this visit, I was a guest only, with nothing to think about or attend to. It was truly wonderful! Not only was it a beautiful visit for me, but also I was able to feel what others do when the leave the Rancho truly relaxed, restored and renewed – just as we say in our literature!
Each day, regardless of the weather, brought a sense of tranquility from the time I was awake. Surrounded by birdsong, the rustle of the breeze through the palm trees, the water lapping gently on the shore was soothing to the soul. The trees, plants and flowers have matured so that now the lush grounds have the feeling of being in a park.
Everywhere, always, is the view of the water, those gentle, pristine waters of Laguna Bacalar. When we say they are healing waters, we feel this is true. The water seems to wash away the tensions we all seem to build up, living in our every-day world, whether we swim in it, kayak or just gaze it, as I do.
For hands-on therapy, the spa facilities offer the loving care that we often seem to neglect giving to ourselves. The Rancho gives it to us through a variety of wraps and massages, as well as other therapeutic treatments. I received the Goddess massage, out in the spa hut built over the water. Lying down, surrendering to the healing hands that were working on me and allowing myself to simply receive what was being offered was an incredible experience.
I started out with an herbal wrap enveloped in hot towels, followed by a salt glow, to be rinsed off by a dip in the laguna. A facial followed, beginning with a mask of pure papaya. Chamomile was also used and the feeling was soothing and relaxing to the face. The next part involved a full body massage. Now, pure oils were rubbed into my body, muscles kneaded to relax them and remove stored up tensions.
All the while the music that was playing softly and the lapping of the waves under the floor blended to provide a magical, encapsulated space. It was pure indulgence, but nothing decadent about it, just healing. The massage therapists are caring and loving. They feel their job is to make people feel good, and their success is beyond question.
And now, a little about the food. Since my own preference is mostly vegetarian, with a little chicken and fish on occasion, I was delighted by the expanded vegetarian menu. Even those who do not share these tastes agreed that all the food served was appetizing and appealing. I always looked forward to meals! Sometimes I had the regular menu, which is always freshly prepared in the spotless and spacious kitchen.
The breakfast buffet is always set with fresh fruit, freshly squeezed orange juice, cereals, yogurt and the Rancho’s own bread and muffins, right from the oven. Anything additional can always be ordered and I sometimes ordered an “extra” omelet. The huevos mexicanos and other traditional preparations are also excellent.
Of course, the coffee and tea station on the counter is always set up for a “help yourself” start to breakfast with a variety of teas, freshly ground coffee and local honey, as well as cream and sugar.
Dinners are the evening’s activity at the Rancho. Starting out with whole wheat rolls fresh from the oven to accompany a variety of interesting soups, the main course usually features either a fish or chicken dish. The traditional chicken mole comes with rice and fried plantains. Fish dishes are sometimes prepared a la Veracruzana (tomatoes, green pepper, onions) or broiled with a light garlic sauce. Vegetables, of course, are completely fresh.
Desserts vary from a variety of pies (prepared in the kitchen), like coconut, lime or chocolate, to the Rancho’s famous flan. Tea or decaffeinated coffee are also served.
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So, if you’re not eating or having bodywork, what to you do at Rancho Encantado? I love some time swinging in my hammock (every casita has them outside on their porch or strung in the trees in front) and reading. Because the casitas are so spacious, with separate sleeping and living areas, even if you don’t feel like being outside, there’s plenty of room to be in.
Swimming in the fresh waters of the laguna is always a treat, especially for the folks used to the cold waters of northern climes. At its coldest time, the Laguna’s waters are always warm. Called the lake of the seven colors, it’s easy to see why. The glorious hues of turquoise, blues and greens are ever changing variations on the theme. As to be expected in these tropical climes, sunsets and sunsets are special times.
I won’t go into all the archeological trips, or this would be an extremely long piece of writing. Back in the old days, it was a major adventure to even get to many of the ruins. Now, new improved roads make driving time less and exploring time more. The sites are even more spectacular than ever, as the archeologists continue to reveal more areas now open to the public.
Roads to the beach have also been expanded and what used to take hours of driving time has been cut significantly. I went to the beach a few days ago and saw many changes. The waters of the Caribbean are spectacular and the white sand beaches beautiful. The Rancho can arrange day-trips to Xcalak for those people who want to snorkel on the nearby reef.
A little bit about the surrounding areas. Yesterday evening we went into the city of Chetumal, about 45 minutes south of the Rancho. Much has been done in the recent few years to beautify what was already a lovely and quiet tropical city. The “Boulevard” that runs along the Bay of Chetumal is lined with trees and park areas. You can drive from one end where the government buildings are, passing the University of Quintana Roo, through the old village of Calderitas to the archeological site of Oxtankah. A nice trip is to go to the Museum of Mayan Culture, take the ride along the Bahia, have lunch in a palapa restaurant along the water’s edge, and explore the ruins of Oxtankah.
It’s also become easier to get to Rancho Encantado. With the new development in the free zone and its proposed casinos and new large hotels, roads have been widened and a new bridge will probably be built in the near future linking Belize and Mexico. I still like landing in Belize and crossing the borders into Mexico, because it’s a nice introduction into this southern part of the Yucatan Peninsula and generally takes less than three hours.
This time I flew into Cancun, and although I wouldn’t want to stay there myself, it’s a nice drive down to the Rancho and, although an hour longer, offers the opportunity for stopping off and visiting the sites in the northern part of the Peninsula on the way down. Another alternative is to fly into Chetumal, connecting through Mexico City. This is the closest and easiest airport and I’ve taken the 2 1/2 hour flight from Mexico City several times. It’s little more than just half an hour from the Chetumal airport to the Rancho, so if the connections work, it’s really the fastest way to get to Rancho Encantado.
I’m getting ready to leave now, somewhat reluctantly. My time here has been a special one, away from all the demands and distractions of ordinary life. My connection with the Yucatan Peninsula of Mexico goes back more than thirty years and I’ve seen many changes. But the changes I see in this area have only made things a little easier.
The area is still quiet and relatively undeveloped. Although the village of Bacalar has gotten a newly remodeled zocolo (plaza) and the Fort is still undergoing restoration, the feeling of this beautiful little town has not changed. You can still see women in their traditional Mayan huipiles with their colorful embroideries and the rhythm is still slow and relaxed.
Rancho Encantado is a dream realized. For groups or individuals (we’ve had both in the weeks I’ve been here), it is not simply a place to stay. It’s an experience and a time to be remembered.
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